The Coolies of Crawford Market and the Spirit of Mumbai
Step into Crawford Market, officially known as Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai, and you will immediately notice the energy of the marketplace.
Amid the crowd, the noise, and the movement, the coolies of Crawford Market quietly carry the weight of the city on their shoulders. With bamboo tokris balanced high in one hand, they move gracefully through narrow lanes filled with fruits, flowers, spices, fabrics, and customers.
These men are not simply workers. They are an essential part of Mumbai’s living rhythm.
The History of Crawford Market
Since 1869, Crawford Market has remained one of Mumbai’s busiest and most iconic marketplaces.
The market offers a sensory experience filled with colours, fragrances, and sounds. Vendors call out prices, customers negotiate endlessly, and shopkeepers manage overflowing goods throughout the day.
Behind this bustling environment, the coolies of Crawford Market keep the system running smoothly. When carts cannot pass through crowded lanes, these porters step in effortlessly.
They carry loads weighing between 40 and 80 kilograms while navigating crowded pathways with remarkable balance and speed.
Without them, the market’s daily movement would slow down dramatically.
The Meaning Behind the Word “Coolie”
The word “coolie” comes from the Hindi and Tamil word kuli, meaning wages or hired labour. Historically, the term carried colonial associations linked to hard physical work and exploitation.
However, at Crawford Market, the meaning feels different today.
The coolies of Crawford Market have transformed the word into a symbol of resilience, trust, and dignity of labour. Their work reflects endurance, discipline, and responsibility.
Each porter represents the idea that honest labour deserves respect regardless of profession.
The Daily Life of the Coolies of Crawford Market
Most of the coolies of Crawford Market begin working at a young age and continue for decades. They often work from early morning until late evening.
Typically, they earn between ₹200 and ₹500 per day depending on customer flow, seasonal demand, and festival shopping.
Unlike formal jobs, they do not receive contracts, fixed salaries, or employee benefits. Instead, their survival depends on trust, physical strength, and customer relationships.
Many coolies live in shared rented rooms near the market to reduce travel expenses and remain available for work before sunrise.
Despite difficult conditions, many workers continue with quiet pride and resilience.
The Tokri Tradition of Crawford Market
One of the most recognizable sights in the market is the bamboo tokri carried by the porters.
The coolies of Crawford Market balance these large baskets on one hand with extraordinary precision. Inside the tokri, customers place fruits, dry fruits, fabrics, crockery, flowers, and other purchases while moving from shop to shop.
The coolie patiently follows the customer through the market, waiting outside stores and adjusting the growing load carefully.
Sometimes, they even guide customers toward better bargains or trusted shops.
At the end of the shopping trip, they carry the goods safely to taxis, cars, or nearby transport points.
This unique system has existed for generations and remains an important part of the market’s identity.
Stories of Strength and Hope
Behind every tokri is a personal story of struggle and ambition.
Santosh, a young porter from Solapur, moved to Mumbai several years ago in search of work.
Every day, he lifts heavy loads for long hours to support his family and help fund his sister’s education.
Similarly, workers like Rahim continue despite physical exhaustion because the work provides dignity and survival.
Their stories reflect the larger spirit of Mumbai: hardworking, hopeful, and determined.
Why the Coolies of Crawford Market Matter
The coolies of Crawford Market are more than labourers. They represent the invisible workforce that supports the city’s economy and daily life.
Their contribution highlights several important social realities:
- The dignity of physical labour
- The importance of informal workers
- Urban resilience and survival
- Human effort behind local commerce
- The cultural heritage of traditional marketplaces
Although customers may overlook them in the rush of shopping, these workers remain the backbone of the market.
Preserving a Living Heritage
Modern technology and delivery systems continue to change urban marketplaces. However, the human connection and efficiency provided by the coolies of Crawford Market still remain irreplaceable.
Their work reflects a tradition passed across generations: one built on endurance, honesty, and trust.
As Mumbai evolves rapidly, preserving the stories and contributions of these workers becomes equally important.
Conclusion
The coolies of Crawford Market carry much more than goods through crowded lanes. They carry the spirit of Mumbai itself : resilient, hardworking, and endlessly moving forward.
The next time you walk through Crawford Market, pause for a moment and notice the porter balancing a bamboo tokri with effortless strength.
In his silent determination lives the true story of Mumbai :a city built not only by skyscrapers and businesses, but also by the people who lift, carry, and endure every single day.















